Living in Las Vegas on and off for two decades, I consider this town my town. I don’t miss a lot about my California upbringing … except the sea. If you long for the ocean like I do, then try Bazaar Mar (thebazaar.com/location/the-bazaar-mar-las-vegas-nv/) at The Shops at Crystals before it’s impossible to get a reservation (full disclosure: I was on the opening team at Bazaar Meat by chef José Andrés at Sahara). Sipping the salt air off the top of my Daisy de Grana cocktail, I could taste the mist of white water that lands on your lips when jumping waves. For a balanced introduction, opt for the Bazaar Mar chef’s tasting menu. It starts with a tiny river trout cone featuring preserved Meyer lemon and dill — a bright, briny amuse-bouche. The Hokkaido sea scallops crudo dazzles as this 13-course extravaganza’s heart. The sweet, delicate texture of the meat paired perfectly with tomatillo, green grapes, and jalapeno-shiso oil.
We dined near an impressive fresh fish display, and I added a whole fish kinmedai, sashimi style, to our experience, because I’d never seen the fish on a Vegas menu before. The golden eye snapper tasted as good as it looked, prepared simply with citrus and olive oil. You can order from an array of fresh fish and enjoy it raw like I did, or baked in sea salt, live fire grilled, or fried. The sea-forward tasting menu closes with a whimsical nod to a childhood enjoyed on the coast: the Key lime beach dessert comprising tangy mousse, lime air, and graham cracker crumbles shaped like a sandcastle. At $175 a person, it’s a special occasion dinner, but Andrés has put together a menu and team that could impress even the pickiest food lover.
Hankering for steamed dumplings, I was excited to get an invite to the new Brunch 32 at Mott 32 (mott32.com/las-vegas) in the Palazzo. When you think dim sum, a salad rarely pops into your mind, but I have to tell you, the shredded Peking duck salad really pops. With its tender, marinated meat, crispy taro, and citrus truffle dressing, this is a must-order dish. If you like a little spice, try the hot and sour Iberico pork Shanghainese soup dumplings. Considering all the upscale versions of small plate items, I’m surprised to say the crabmeat and corn soup is my favorite bite here. It’s overflowing with crabmeat, velvety, and oh-so-comforting. The Oolong tea xiao long bao is the only dish that confused me. The presentation is stunning, as it appears under a white cloud served in a traditional bamboo steamer, but the texture was solid not smooth, and the flavor was underwhelming. I’d rather finish sipping one of the signature cocktails; the Forbidden Rose is fantastic with vanilla-infused pisco, passionfruit and lychee puree, a hint of chili, and an egg white. Overall, Brunch 32 is dim sum kind of wonderful.
If you’re looking for a spectacular dessert, head to Kyu (kyurestaurants.com/location/kyu-lasvegas), pronounced “cue,” at Fontainebleau. The Asian-inspired restaurant is known for its smoked and wood-fired delights like their stone pot Thai rice and addictive Korean fried chicken with chili butter. Even the roasted cauliflower with goat cheese and shisito-herb vinaigrette is a masterpiece (yes, a cauli masterpiece!). But honestly, I can’t stop dreaming of their watermelon shaved ice served with fresh strawberries, passionfruit, and lychee. It’s a tropical vacation in your mouth.
That’s the Vegas Dish for now. Until we eat again …
