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R-J Food Critic

RJ Taste

Sacre bleu! Quelle horreur! Bless my soul and kiss my grits….it do appear that the nation's worst newspaper has a restaurant reviewer. True….the writing is suspect, food knowledge is non-existent, and the review nothing but a first-person account of a single visit, but at least it's there. It must be that the powers that be at the Regurgitation Journal finally got a clue--five years late I might add--about Las Vegas being the hottest restaurant venue in the world--our world class those restaurants….which number about twenty now--have people hungry for more than these fluff pieces and chef profiles that run on Thursdays. That "TASTE" section as it's called, has but one goal--to offend as little as possible--which last time I checked was not on the curriculum of any journalism school. Anyway, maybe all those libertarians on the editorial board got tired of pandering to the casinos and insulting our intelligence so they wised up and gave poor Heidi hyphenated her column. It's buried on page sixty-four of the Friday entertainment supplement--which isn't fair to her, the dining-out public, or the restaurants. And while we're on the subject, I'm not sure how fair she can be when ratings are bestowed on the basis of a single visit. This is true when evaluating a place as sophisticated as Aureole--to see how it stacks up against its high-flying competition…on the flip side--most would agree that it doesn't take three visits to conclude that the Macaroni Grill sucks--BUT IF I'M NOT MISTAKEN, HEIDI GAVE BOTH THE SAME "B" RATING. As she did Houlihan's. See what I mean about her restaurant knowledge? But let's wish the lady luck, and give wire service incorporated some credit for trying to act like a big-city newspaper for a change.

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This is John Curtas.

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Thursday, April 13, 2000
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