On the northern edge of Joshua Tree National Park sit a few unassuming towns, including Yucca Valley, named for the abundant Mojave yucca trees growing there. The plant also shares a name with the surrounding Mojave Desert.
This High Desert area, southwest of Las Vegas and extending into Southern California, is a peculiar place. You’ll find towns and cities whose vibes range from the ’50s flashback of Palm Springs to the off-grid solitude of the Salton Sea. On the three-and-a-half hour drive to Joshua Tree National Park, you’ll pass through Mojave National Preserve, a mosaic of desert habitat now partially scarred by the 2020 Dome Fire.
The Inland Empire, as the larger region is known, is marked by extreme heat in the summer, near-reliable High Desert snow in the winter, and an endless sea of Joshua trees. (Worth noting: In 2023, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service decided the two Joshua trees that decorate the Mojave Desert aren’t fit for protection under the Endangered Species Act despite threats to the iconic trees, accelerated by climate change.)
Yucca Valley is the second largest of the towns along the Twentynine Palms Highway, just west of the town of Joshua Tree. I’ve visited the area a handful of times over the past decade, and I’m astounded by the dramatic change it has undergone in that time. This may largely be because of a recent tourism boom. The national park surpassed 1 million annual visitors for the first time in 1990. Until 2014, it welcomed 1-1.6 million visitors per year. Then, in 2021, more than 3 million people visited. A resulting Airbnb boom seems to just now be leveling off.
Mayor Jeff Drozd, who, with his wife, runs a popular Airbnb location called the Tres Burros Ranch, has witnessed a lot of change in his five decades living in the desert — and nine years on the city council. According to Drozd, the pandemic turbo charged tourism to the area.
It was “people just wanting to flee the city and get a taste of nature and others started moving to the area (not just Yucca Valley) since they were able to work from home,” Drozd says. “Now some that have built vacation rentals are selling their properties, but the area still remains busier with tourists than it did before COVID.” He said that, while the tourism rates have climbed, the city’s population has grown by only 1,000 between the last two Census counts.
To accommodate tourists and enhance life for residents, the city government is paying attention to traffic and infrastructure, Drozd says. “Our residents deserve well-maintained streets but also quality-of-life projects,” such as an outdoor event space. The city is also building a sports complex to serve children and the elderly. Drozd believes a high-speed train connecting Las Vegas to Los Angeles would benefit Yucca Valley, should the train stop in Victorville.
What makes the Mojave Desert crossroads a great place to visit, he says, are its hiking trails, side destinations, parks, restaurants, and shopping.
WHERE TO STAY
The area has many short-term rentals, or you could check out Field Station Joshua Tree, a recently opened boutique motel catering to the outdoors crowd. fieldstation.com/joshua-tree
WHAT TO DO
Joshua Tree National Park, like Nevada’s Great Basin National Park, is a dark sky park — as the saying goes, “Half the park is after dark.” Drozd says the area gets a bump of folks during celestial events. nps.gov/jotr/index.htm
Then there’s Pioneertown. Yucca Valley is the gateway to this unincorporated Wild West community, started in the 1940s to replicate the 1880s in film and television. The draw now, beyond the remaining sets-turned-town, is Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace, a “Twin Peaks” roadhouse come to life with its astonishingly fantastic lineup of indie talent in a rough-and-tumble Western setting. Check their calendar regularly, because there’s always a great show coming up. I also recommend a stop in the Hi-Desert Nature Museum, which just celebrated its 60th anniversary. visitpioneertown.com, pappyandharriets.com, hidesertnaturemuseum.org
WHAT TO EAT
In the 1950s, a twist of fate led local physician John Bendall to buy land for an airport and dinner house, the Copper Room. The moody, lovely, classic atmosphere only lends to the place’s impressive dining and drinks menu. I recommend the paper plane cocktail and a slice of Basque cheesecake. thecopperroom1957.com
If you’re looking for something more casual, pop over to the Tiny Pony Tavern, which, on the weekends, hosts DJs and drag shows, and on weekdays slings a mean burger. thetinypony.com
They also have brunch, but it would be criminal for me not to suggest a short drive north to visit La Copine. The Philly food cart turned high desert phenom is serving Michelin-level seasonal meals at unbelievably reasonable prices. Get there well before opening to put your name on the list, or make a reservation via text. lacopinekitchen.com
