No matter the departure point of your road trip, the city of Ely emerges around the final bend of the journey with an immediate charm. The highways feeding into this northeast Nevada city are traditional mountainous twists with all the splendors of the desert landscape: diverse flora, glorious mountainsides, majestic (and tiny) creatures like Rocky Mountain Elk (and jackrabbits and chipmunks). Also, a windmill farm! It’s a magical drive that sees snow in the winter months and generally cooler temperatures year-round, though summer months can top 90 degrees.
Few towns in Nevada pack as much punch in such a small space. The entire city is only about seven square miles, and the population hovers around 4,000, but it has a vibrancy reflected in its penchant for artistic and cultural endeavors. Originally a stagecoach station for the Pony Express, Ely is like many places across Nevada that experienced a cycle of mining booms and busts. Here, it was the discovery of copper in nearby McGill around the late 19th century that put it on the map. As a result, the Nevada Northern Railway began construction in Ely in 1905. That train station and its attendant structures continue to resonate as the historic town emerged into a modern tourist destination.
According to Kyle Horvath, director of tourism at White Pine County, “Ely is a friendly and proud rural town. We love sharing our story and our community with people. Guaranteed you will meet fun people, have interesting conversations, and have memorable experiences.” Celebrating that pride, Horvath continues, “We know Ely is a trek to get to us, so we focus on providing quality events, attractions, facilities, and experiences. If you are into Nevada and American history, there is no more important place than Ely. If you are into the outdoors, our mountains are unparalleled. If you’re into the arts, it is celebrated everywhere.”
Ely is easy to get around, and most of the highlights are along the main drag, Aultman Street, which is part of US-50, the celebrated “Loneliest Road in America.” One of Ely’s many charms is the abundance of murals on the sides of historic buildings along this street. The Hotel Nevada, built in 1929, has probably the best-known, with a gun-toting mule cooking over an open fire, promising “Western Hospitality.” But throughout the easy-to-walk city, you’ll see ample art, some of which honors the Basque traditions of its early residents. There’s also a fantastic collection of art, jewelry, and crafts in a converted bank building aptly called the Ely Art Bank. It’s there along with thrift stores, mercantile shops, and even a throwback eatery called the Economy Drug and Old-Fashioned Fountain that has a toy store in the basement.
Ely has plenty of modern diversions, too, but with a retro flair. This includes the historic Central Theater, which offers first-run movies in a 1930s art deco film palace equipped with updated sound and projection; a nostalgic bowling alley (Sunset Lanes); and old dive bars aplenty, such as the Club Rio. Finally, for the more adventurous, a few legal brothels are within walking distance of the main drag, most of which, like the notorious Stardust Ranch, include a cocktail bar for mingling, even if professional services aren’t sought.
WHERE TO STAY
The area has ample, midcentury roadside motels and modern, well-known name hotel/casinos, such as Ramada’s Copper Queen, (805 Great Basin Blvd.) but the true gem is the Hotel Nevada. This historic place has an Old West vibe, impressive facade, modern casino, and quirky, surprisingly comfy rooms with some good-sized, decorative suites in the mix. Be mindful of the signage in older rooms warning you that the hot/cold setting on the shower may have a mind of its own. hotelnevada.com
WHAT TO DO
The Northern Nevada Railway Museum is a hands-on institution, where you can experience a mechanical shop and take various tours (about 90 minutes) through the basin on a steam engine. The one tour you need to plan is the stunning nighttime stargazer route that can be booked a year ahead of time. nnry.com
Ely is fabulous and self-contained, but you’re so close to Nevada’s only national park, Great Basin, that there’s no reason not to take the quick hour drive to see this beautiful spot. While there, tour the famous Lehman Caves, home to prohibition parties in the 1920s, and the cutest tiny town, Baker, near the entry. nps.gov/grba
WHAT TO EAT
Hector’s Cellblock Steakhouse in the Jailhouse casino is exactly what the name implies — patrons eat in a jail cell (that’s faux and far more comfy) and steak. A lot of steaks are offered a la carte with all the traditional fixins and veggies available as a side. jailhousecasino.com
An up-and-coming rival is JT’s Steakhouse at the Copper Queen Casino. It’s celebrated as a true farm-to-table restaurant co-owned by a husband and wife duo (she’s a rancher, he’s a local school teacher and councilman). There’s no set menu, rather a rotating menu to keep with seasonality. jtssteakhouse.com
Racks Bar and Grill is a sports bar with burgers, sandwiches, and appetizers, plus a full dinner such as chicken or fish if you’re hungry. This is the best option if you’re looking for a craft cocktail in a small town (or, you know, just an ice-cold beer). racksbarnevada.com
Happy Garden provides a wide range of Asian cuisine from pad Thai to chicken chow mein. It’s offbeat in a rural Western town, but the locals rave at its authenticity. happygardenely.com