If humanity has gleaned any benefit from centuries of exploitative Western hegemony, it can be found on the plate. Take the humble banh mi, for example. France’s introduction of baguettes to Vietnam in the early 19th century resulted in a stellar example of sandwich-making. With wide varieties and nuanced flavors, there’s a banh mi for every palate. In Las Vegas’ strong Vietnamese food scene, you can find the version that’s for you. Here are three suggestions to get started.
Pho Thanh
On Spring Mountain, half a block from Chinatown legends such as Raku, Pho Thanh is an unassuming spot, with a walk-up counter, booth seating, extensive menu, and attached mini mart selling assorted sundries. The pho here is excellent, but the banh mi offers the best bang for your buck, coming in a wide variety at an easy price point. If you’re up for breakfast, the sausage and egg banh mi combines sweet and savory components. For a more midday mood, try the charbroiled chicken, grilled meat seasoned perfectly against pickled vegetables, fresh cilantro and light spread of aioli. The baguettes here are softer than other shops, which makes it easy to tear through two in a sitting.
Lost Sweets
Lost Sweets makes soft-serve taiyaki (little fish-shaped waffles stuffed with a variety of fillings) in a spot across from Resorts World. It’s an outlier for a good Viet sandwich, yet it might just have the best one in town. They serve only one variety of banh mi, packed with cured meat, fresh char shu, and a divine house-made paté that could be eaten on its own. It’s got rich umami and a bright vegetal profile. At a foot long, this sandwich is a size larger than standard banh mi, the baguette is denser, and it’s the most expensive one on our list at $16. But it’s worth every dime.
Cô Ahn
Back on Spring Mountain, Cô Ahn is a mom-and-pop kitchen with a family vibe. It’s not your standard pho joint; in fact, there’s no pho on the menu. Instead, you’ll find Cô Ahn hits the banh mi trifecta of great veggies, well-prepared proteins, and a soft, crunchy baguette. My favorite is the fishcake, with lightly fried triangles of processed fish and rich mayonnaise. I recommend the head cheese for the more adventurous diner, who will enjoy its strong flavor. The price is also right at Cô Ahn, where no sandwich is over $8 and change.