Usually, the French dip is a relatively simple meat-bread-broth combo. But Morels Steakhouse & Bistro takes the lunchtime classic to new heights. It starts with the main filling — slices of slow-roasted prime roast beef. Next comes a layer of sweetly caramelized onions and buttery, nutty Emmental cheese, topped by a slather of zesty horseradish cream, all inside a nicely crusted hunk of bread. Then there’s the extraordinary jus. In most eateries, this means a thin sauce, but not at Morels. Instead, it’s more of a rich beef gravy that lacquers your sandwich with savory goodness. The plate arrives with hand-cut fries or a light salad. I prefer the salad; its vibrant vinaigrette helps balance out the luxurious, nearly decadent sandwich. If a table is open on the patio overlooking Las Vegas Boulevard, dip away with a daytime view of the Strip.
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