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Seeds of Discontent

Illustrated statue of oversized vegetables, including corn, onion, peanuts and an olive oil bottle with tiny people figures trying to pull the statue down.
Ryan Vellinga
/
Nevada Public Radio

Citing possible health benefits, some restaurants are cutting back on oils derived from seeds

If you have driven to the southwest part of town, you may have passed a billboard that reads, “We Hate Seed Oils.” This message highlights a growing trend. So, you may wonder, what’s the culinary or health rationale behind it?

Some view seed oils — canola, corn, cottonseed, grapeseed, soybean, sunflower, safflower, rice bran, and peanut — as harmful because of their high quotient of omega-6, a type of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA). Although research on this view is limited, many businesses are moving away from seed oils because they may negatively affect health. Nationwide chains such as Steak ’n Shake are working to eliminate them entirely. Some companies in the potato chip industry are using avocado and olive oils. In 2024, the Seed Oil Free Alliance, a third-party certifying organization, certified its first restaurant in the U.S. In Las Vegas, an increasing number of restaurants have eliminated seed oils in favor of beef and Wagyu tallow, olive, avocado, coconut, and palm oils.

This eating habit isn’t new. In 2015, nutritionist Steven Macari reported on the potential benefits of a PUFA-free diet for bazaar.com, suggesting it might slow the aging process and improve overall health. Registered dietician Miriam Een, an assistant professor of nutrition at UNLV’s Kirk Kerkorian School of Medicine, says, “If there’s chronic inflammation, diets high in omega-6 fatty acids can increase the potential for that inflammatory response.” She says seed oils don’t cause the inflammation, but can exacerbate an existing chronic or inflammatory condition. Een emphasizes the importance of balancing other lifestyle factors, such as getting enough sleep and maintaining a well-rounded diet.

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Currently, restaurants in Las Vegas that have gone seed oil-free include El Dorado Cantina, which collaborated with Seed Oil Scout on the above-mentioned billboard, Emilio’s Contemporary Mexican Kitchen, Carolina’s Mexican Kitchen, True Food Kitchen, Protein House, Le Café Du Vegas brands, and Tarantino’s Vegan. However, seed oils can still be found in many products, such as plant-based milk, mayonnaise, salad dressings, and nut butter. Unless restaurants prepare their own condiments and nondairy milk, these eateries might not be completely free of seed oils.

For fry lovers, Bardot Brasserie offers duck fat fries, and With Love, Always — a smash-burger joint — serves shoestring fries deep-fried in beef tallow. Additionally, some restaurants that aren’t seed oil-free can prepare dishes using alternative oils upon request. Pan Asian Thai Cuisine will cook any dish with coconut oil if asked. Harvest, Salt & Spoon, and Stubborn Seed use farm-sourced ingredients, which may help balance the healthy versus unhealthy ratios.

Going seed oil-free needn’t force a wholesale lifestyle change. “I don’t think it needs to be your main focus,” Een says. “Eliminate if you want. Can you have a healthy diet without seed oils? Absolutely.”

How is Las Vegas' healthcare system really doing, and what does it mean for you and your family? Desert Companion's Health Issue takes a deep dive into these questions and explores how heart-centered business leaders prove that doing good benefits the bottom line.