Desert Companion

Eat this now: Coffee Roast Beef Sandwich

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Coffee Roast Beef Sandwich
Lucky Wenzel

Coffee Roast Beef Sandwich

Coffee roast beef sandwich at PublicUs

1126 Fremont St., 702-331-5500, publicuslv.com

Coffee house, wine bar, gourmet lunch spot — the way PublicUs is trying to be all things to all people, you’d think it was running for president. It’s got my vote. The Fremont Street café that looks like the home of a chic hobbit (designer picnic tables, real trees) serves coffee-shop fare that’s both hearty and high-concept. PublicUs’ coffee roast beef sandwich hits that sweet spot: Coffee-brined roast beef, gooey brie and a horseradish slaw on house-baked ciabatta bread. The coffee barely registers as coffee, adding a touch of earth and aroma; the tang of horseradish is tempered by the creamy brie. The portion’s reasonable enough for lunch, but side it with a glass of red and, ta-da, a decadent dinner is served. Andrew Kiraly

 

Baked ricotta at Hearthstone

Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa, 702-797-7344, hearthstonelv.com

Pop a Lactaid and dive bread-first into this heated pool of gooey cheese, courtesy of chef Brian Massie. Creamy ricotta and subtly sweet gouda are baked in the kitchen’s wood-fired oven and served with rustic slices of grilled bread for a brilliant starter that mimics a deconstructed grilled cheese. That’s not to say this is kid’s stuff. Spicy cracked black pepper and the perfume of truffle honey add character to the comfort dish — it’s better matched with a glass of wine than a side of tomato soup. Debbie Lee

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