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Eat this now: Porchetta at SloBoy Food

Photography by Brent Holmes
Photography by Brent Holmes

at SloBoy Food

1516 Las Vegas Blvd. S.,

You had me at pork belly. You had me at slow-cooked, walnut-infused, pesto-topped pork belly. Perfectly rolled, grilled, uncoiled and served in a humble paper tray, ably sidekicked by carrots or potatoes. It’s got an earthy, food-of-the-people boldness — not the empty, showy boldness of, say, a Bundy standoff, but the real, mouth-filling thing that even non-foodie humans can love. You want a thousand more words, look at the picture. But let me add this, because it’s important to your experience of the dish: The reason it’s served in a paper tray is that SloBoy occupies the tiny food-to-go kiosk outside of Dino’s — it’s a cuisine incubator, that little hut, and SloBoy might only be there a few more months. Hurry. I’ll try to leave you some.

Scott Dickensheets is a Las Vegas writer and editor whose trenchant observations about local culture have graced the pages of publications nationwide.