an member station

Desert Companion

Eat this now: Hamburger and spaghetti

Our favorite recent dishes that have us coming back for seconds

 

Hamburger at P.J. Clarke’s

This might be the perfect burger. It is neither too big nor too small, not too thick nor too thin. What arrives is a small, round plate, with a thick-cut Bermuda onion sitting under a perfectly plain, perfectly fresh bun that is perfectly content to let the beef do the talking. That beef is all a perfect hamburger needs to be: clean, rich, Meyer Ranch beef, correctly ground (not too fine), packed (not too tight), seasoned right and proportional to the bread. In other words: perfect. — John Curtas

inside the Forum Shops at Caesars, 434-7900

 

Spaghetti al’aglio e olio e pepperocino at Bratalian Neapolitan Cantina

There is a delicious, deceptive simplicity to good Italian-American food that is lost at all the faux franchises and cookie-cutter noodle parlors. Spaghetti al’aglio e olio e pepperocino is a case in point. It’s simple spaghetti with oil and garlic, with a touch of hot peppers — one of the most basic of all recipes in the Ital-American canon — but one most often fouled up by cooks not taking the time to cook the garlic and peppers properly. It must be prepared slowly until the garlic slivers attain an almost caramelized, nutty sweetness. When made correctly, it is the consummate peasant pasta dish that gives almost magisterial pleasure. Bratalian’s version is fit for a king. — J.C.

Support comes from

10740 S. Eastern Ave., 454-0104

More from
,

More Stories

Desert Companion
Feature
Jul 01, 2014

DEALicious meals

Desert Companion
Dining
Desert Companion
Feature
Now Playing
/
My Queue
Press Play to start audio

My Queue

Nothing Playing

Add some items to your playlist to play them.