As a restaurant, Sinatra takes the traditional Italian dishes that Frank had loved since he was a kid in Hoboken and updates the style and service with Palm Springs class and Vegas panache worthy of the Chairman’s legendarily top-shelf standards. As such, Theo Schoenegger’s kitchen creates polished renditions of angnolotti, osso buco, saltimbocca and polpettine. The polpettine is a quartet of perfectly round little meatballs, with a light texture that belies their rich flavor, dripped with a marinara sauce that is similarly robust yet has unexpected tinges of sweetness and richness. The dish is completed by several tidy little stacks of polenta fries — outside they’re a crispy golden and perfect 90-degree angles, inside creamy and soft as clouds. Eat them slowly, savoring every bite. The lights are dim, the banquette is velvet-cushioned, the martini is dry and, in the background, that Voice is crooning about this world he’s got on a string. Life is good. Lissa Townsend Rodgers