Forget those calcified butter medallions served with your complimentary breadbasket. For a hedonistic take on the traditional bread-and-butter formula, bone marrow is the spread of choice. At the local outpost of Searsucker, Chef Brian Malarkey’s New American restaurant chainlet, roasted beef bones undergo a show-stopping transformation from primal nasty bits to decadent — and, in our Instagram-crazed age, highly photogenic — starter. They’re as large as split fireplace logs, lacquered in a Fresno chili bourbon glaze and topped with a sweet, sour and sticky onion jam for an added boost of flavor. A bushel of fresh parsley lends a necessary brightness to prevent overkill. Scoop the warm and wobbly marrow from its natural vessel and slather it on crusty slices of grilled bread. It melts on contact, creating a luscious pool of fat that seeps into every last craggy crumb. A butcher’s cut that once literally went to the dogs has come a long way.
Searsucker’s cocktails menu is heavy on garden flavors, with many beverages based on their house-infused liquors such as blackberry-peach bourbon or seasonal berry vodka. The Peter Rabbit blends cucumber-infused gin or Pimm’s with basil and lemon, finished with pickled carrot.