Coffee house, wine bar, gourmet lunch spot — the way PublicUs is trying to be all things to all people, you’d think it was running for president. It’s got my vote. The Fremont Street café that looks like the home of a chic hobbit (designer picnic tables, real trees) serves coffee-shop fare that’s both hearty and high-concept. PublicUs’ coffee roast beef sandwich hits that sweet spot: Coffee-brined roast beef, gooey brie and a horseradish slaw on house-baked ciabatta bread. The coffee barely registers as coffee, adding a touch of earth and aroma; the tang of horseradish is tempered by the creamy brie. The portion’s reasonable enough for lunch, but side it with a glass of red and, ta-da, a decadent dinner is served.