Partage’s small plates of note include pillowy salmon croquettes served with luscious avocado mayonnaise and a trompe-l’œil plating of fresh halibut that’s been transformed to look like delicate slices of dragonfruit. Other fresh denizens of the deep include oysters, scallops, octopus, and lobster in elaborate presentations. Vegetables are highlighted at Partage, which gets much of its seasonal provisions from Southern Nevada growers. In a nearly architectural presentation, the ratatouille-stuffed tempura squash blossom is balanced on a zucchini puck like an edible Calder mobile. And in a rich, visually arresting assembly, creamy veal sweetbreads are paired with earthy salsify, porcini, tonka bean purée, and crisp wheels of fried lotus root.
Larger entrée plates, designed to be shared, range from mini seasonal vegetables stuffed with vegan “meat” and quinoa, to ginger-crusted duckling breasts with roast peaches and sautéed mushrooms. For sizeable celebrations, look to the 32-ounce Choice beef tomahawk steak smoked with hickory, applewood, or hay. Housemade desserts rotate daily, and can include classic sections like a mini Baked Alaska filled with cloudlike meringue and zingy raspberry coulis or whimsical confections du jour. The wine list is succinct and smartly curated, and the mixology program pushes spirits forward with concoctions like the summery, gin-based Passion Rosemary with herbaceous Aperol.
Partage is extraordinary, but a few caveats are in order. First, its experimental nature is probably not the best match for those with less adventurous palates, something to keep in mind for business gatherings or family in from out of town. Further, staunchly traditional Francophiles won’t find bistro fare like escargot, frog legs, or cheese-topped onion soup in the repertoire; an avant-garde disposition comes in handy.