There is, on the menu, an enigma called “The Flatlanders Special,” which purports to include raw liver, parsnips and sautéed grunion lips. We stick with ham and cheese, which is much less of a joke. Still, the Flatlanders’ corny cheer permeates this popular spot, from the “hi, hon” service to the wall kitsch. The food is best considered hardy — the omelets are plump, the pancakes fluffy and the huevos are nicely ranchero, at least if you’re a gringo. There's lots of what no one here would bother to call “good mouth feel.” The breakfast spuds are locally famous, too.