No one does sweet and hot better than Thailand, and her sea bass in a sweet chili glaze is seafood on an ethereal level. Which is also where food critic John Curtas puts her sour Issan sausages and the best Thai beef salad in town. But the real reason to go there, was for the best Asian dessert: Sliced mango, surrounding huge scoops of fresh coconut ice cream, and a warm mound of salty sticky rice, is a sweet, savory, and salty delight....and worth a trip all on its own.
Robert Parker (yeah, that Robert Parker) calls Lotus’s wine card the greatest German wine list in America, and we have no reason to argue with him. It’s also shoulder-deep in sake, Alsatian whites and Austrian Grüner Veltliners — all of which match, in surprising ways, Saipan Chutima’s fierce and fiery country Thai cooking. This is where you’ll find almost every wine professional in town on their day off, usually at a table groaning with riesling bottles.