Sushi joints try to outdo each other with excessively wacky ingredients in their rolls. It’s just what they do. But the new sushi joint at Mandalay Bay—it’s more of a sexy palace of Japanese cuisine, actually—is shooting for a very particular kind of wacky. Kumi’s pork belly roll approximates a backyard cookout within a perfect cylinder of sushi rice and nori. The lightly fried morsel of pork is crispy, sweet and slightly creamy and smoky, topped with a simple yet sublime slaw of Brussels sprouts. It’s one of the oddest bites you’ll find on Kumi’s menu, and one that will stay on your mind even after you’ve worked your way through that menu. – B.R.