At $26, this big plate of three moles — traditional Mexican sauces — isn’t inexpensive, but as a value proposition it’s edible gold. This surprisingly upscale kitchen delivers chicken slathered in rich blends of Oaxacan chocolate, pumpkin-chile poblano and Guajillo-chiptole chiles. Pork is available with a $5 upcharge. On the side comes refried or black beans, cilantro rice and tortillas. On the architectural side … yes, El Dorado is next to Sapphire Gentlemen’s Club — so very Vegas. GT