There might be as many Thai restaurants in town as there are all-you-can-eat sushi joints. Most are indistinguishable from one another when it comes to staples such as rad nah and pad see yew. But David Wong allows his noodles to loiter in the wok just a bit longer than others do, letting them develop a sweet balance of caramelization and smoke. It makes all the difference. David knows that perfect flavor is in the details.