You might be excused for wondering what all the shouting is about when you roll up to Café Breizh for the first time. It sits toward the far end of one of those generic strip malls that are as Las Vegas as slot machines in a grocery store. But do not be deterred, for once inside you’ll find the best French pastries in town. The selection is small, but the craftsmanship, artistry, and intense flavors will grab you from the first bite. There is no better croissant in Vegas, on or off the Strip; the chocolate éclair is so packed with custard it threatens to burst its pastry case, and the picture-perfect tarts do that tri-level taste thing (crusty, creamy, and fruity) that the French perfected around the time the Musketeers were buckling their swashes. Pierre Gatel is the chef, owner, and hand-maker of each of these, and from the day he opened three years ago (after a stint at the Wynn), Francophiles, Napoleon addicts, and Danish devotees have made a beeline here for his creations. He also does a limited number of baguettes every day, which sell like hotcakes, so go early if you want to grab a loaf and feel like les Français on your way home. Las Vegas is blessed with a wealth of pastry talent, but most of it stays in the hotels. Now we have one of them staging his magic right on south Fort Apache, in a spot that feels like a slice of Paris, and the alchemy he performs daily with butter, flour, cream, and sugar is something to behold.