The hybrid bowling alley/live music venue/restaurant, located at The Linq, is the first big project on the Strip to capitalize on the concept of modern-day Brooklyn (which is essentially, and ironically, a throwback to old-timey Brooklyn). The design is inspired by Coney Island in its freakshow-friendly, pre-war heyday, and a menu designed by Blue Ribbon’s Bruce and Eric Bromberg is an equally nostalgic match.

For starters, there’s a smoked fish spread with capers, dill and dainty triangles of rye toast.

If you’ve never had a knish (a kind of giant mashed potato dumpling), the potato and onion version at Blue Ribbon might be a misleading introduction. One of the more common versions sold at Jewish delis and hot dog stands is square-shaped with a dense filling and leathery crust. These are far more refined, made with almost frothy potatoes and tissue-thin pastry. The requisite dollop of deli mustard and sour cream are also included.

Like bacon, fried chicken is an infallible creation that’s perfect in every form. At Brooklyn Bowl, the common blue-plate special is made outstanding with a breading of matzoh crumbs and a generous shower of Blue Ribbon’s secret crimson-colored spice blend.

You can order food and drinks almost anywhere within the massive, 80,000-square foot space, but anyone looking to unleash his inner Dude at the lanes will have to choose wisely. Perhaps the most bowling-friendly item is the French bread pizza, cut neatly into hand-held rectangles.

At Blue Ribbon, the egg cream is served with an iced tea spoon so that guests can mix the concoction to order (the only way to achieve a classic foamy head at the top of the glass).

Award:

"Best Happy Hour," 2015 Desert Companion Best of the City issue