I know: Why, why, why (forehead-slap!) get chicken at a steakhouse? Because this pan-roasted chicken is like Chicken: The Concept Album on a plate. The main breast serving is delicate and tender, with a perfect brown crisp on the skin that looks like it was applied with an airbrush. It’s served on a bed of trofie — elegant but unfussy capsule pasta — swimming in an earthy mushroom truffle cream previously only available to one-percenter forest pixies. Save the pastry-wrapped drumstick for last.