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Eat this now: Dirty Chips

Dirty Chips
Brent Holmes
Brent Holmes

at Pho King Phonomenal Noodle Lab and Grill
35 E. Basic Road, Henderson, 702-567-0777


The main draws at this newish joint are the pho and the hefty bahn mi known as the Big Wang (I’ll pause to let the tittering subside ...) (... still tittering? ... c’mon, people), but I’m here today to praise the messy, delightful Dirty Chips. The ingredients list — fried wonton chips, bacon jelly drizzle, “secret” peanut sauce, fried garlic, crispy chicken skin — hints at the mad science going on. The wonton makes for lighter bites than regular chips, there’s a pleasurable volley of sweet and savory, the chicken skins add crunch, and be ready for a kick of spice — it’s not Bikini-Atoll-in-your-mouth hot, but you'll eventually feel the burn. Afterward, reflect on how nice it is to see a new culinary wrinkle in this drowsy old part of drowsy old Henderson.

Scott Dickensheets is a Las Vegas writer and editor whose trenchant observations about local culture have graced the pages of publications nationwide.