When Johnny Cash was “totin' his pack along the dusty Winnemucca road,” he was probably getting hungry. Lucky for him, he was in the heart of northern Nevada’s Basque Country. On this episode of “Outdoor Nevada,” host Connor Fields takes a trip to Winnemucca — for a bit of history, a big ride, and a tasty meal.
The town was named after the 19th-century Northern Paiute leader, Chief Winnemucca, whose daughter, Sarah Winnemucca, famously advocated for education and fair treatment of the area’s Paiute and Shoshone tribes. The Humboldt Museum has curated artifacts and documented history in displays depicting a range of cultures and eras, from Native Americans through pioneers.
Winnemucca is also the heart of northern Nevada’s Basque Country. Basque immigrants began arriving in northern Nevada in the mid-19th century, and many worked as sheepherders. To this day, Winnemucca still has the highest percentage of Basque Americans of any city in the U.S. and hosts a large annual Basque Festival.
Winnemucca is surrounded by great hikes, but because of its cultural uniqueness, no trip to the town is complete without a stop at The Martin Hotel for a delicious Basque-style dinner (served family-style, of course). So, we recommend both! The Water Canyon Recreation area is fewer than five miles from the hotel, meaning you can take a short hike in the afternoon, and still make a 6 p.m. reservation.
Take a Hike, Then Grab a Bite: Water Canyon Nature Trail; the Martin Hotel
Getting there: Winnemucca is on U.S. 80 about halfway between Reno and the Utah state line. From Winnemucca Blvd. in the center of town, turn south onto S. Bridge St. and then, after about a mile, go right (south) onto S. Highland Dr. After less than half a mile, head left (southeast) on Water Canyon Rd. Water Canyon Recreation Area is about two miles down the road. About 1,000 feet inside the recreation area, look for a right turn onto a small road. The nature trail begins another 500 or so feet off the right side of this road. You can do a quick half-mile out-and-back or continue on the full Water Canyon Interpretive Trail, which covers nearly 6 miles out and back and includes nearly 1,300 feet of climbing. To get back to the Martin, retrace your route back to Winnemucca, and from S. Bridge Street, before getting to Winnemucca Blvd., take a left (west) on W. Railroad St. The hotel is on your right.
Distance: 7 hours from Las Vegas, 2.5 hours from Reno
Equipment Needed: A sturdy pair of walking shoes; food, water, and hiking gear tailored to the length of hike you plan to do (1 liter of water per hour minimum); a healthy appetite for a long road trip and a big meal.
Pro Tip: You can’t call yourself a true Nevadan until you’ve had the classic Basque cocktail, the Picon Punch. Just make sure you have a driver if you have more than one.
