Desert Companion

DEALicious Meals: Staying power

Flavor. History. Vibe.

Golden Steer

Hailing from 1958, the Steer doesn’t so much celebrate the past as it rolls around in it like a dog in the dirt after bathtime. Paintings of bronco busters over leather banquettes. Wood paneling rivals your grandma’s living room. Tableside classics like cherries jubilee and chateaubriand complete the effect. JS 308 W. Sahara Ave., 702-384-4470,


The Pamplemousse

In a little re-purposed house on Sahara Ave., just up the street from the fancy new SLS, is one of the oldest restaurants still in operation in Vegas — and a time capsule of its 1976 (then-newly imported) French cuisine. The Pamplemousse features hosts in tuxedos, plush fake flowers, and a menu full of duck l’orange, escargot Bourguignonne and other French classics — with (nearly) unchanged 1976 prices.  MW 400 E. Sahara Ave., 702-733-2066,


Bob Taylor’s Ranch House

Built into an old ranch-style home, decked out in the finest ‘70s shag, this is steaks served in the epitome of kitsch. Everything from the John Wayne oil painting to the silver dollars under glass at the bar is as authentically vintage as can be. MW 6250 Rio Vista St., 702-645-1399,

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Battista’s Hole in the Wall

When in doubt, offer unlimited wine. It’s a strategy that’s served Battista’s Hole in the Wall well in its 36 years of operation. You know the drill: 25 red-sauce classics practically spill over the side of the plate. Each entree comes with the same bounty of sides, including that unlimited house wine. They’ll even let you take the carafe leftovers in a Styrofoam go-cup at the end of the night. JS 4041 Linq Lane, 702-732-1424,


Dispensary Lounge

From the swinging saloon doors to the perverse overabundance of wood paneling and shag carpeting, the Dispensary Lounge is a throwback to my dad’s basement bar from the ’70s. But Dad didn’t have a waterwheel (oh yes, there is a waterwheel), and he certainly didn’t make burgers like those at Dispensary Lounge. The char-broiled, hand-formed burgers are among the best in town, and the housemade honey mustard should not be missed. JB, 2451 E. Tropicana Ave., 458-6343,

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