Michael Mina goes mainstream at his new Parisian concept, Bardot Brasserie — but these dishes please without pandering
We appear to be approaching a Goldilocks moment in our local dining scene. From the gold-leaf and truffle-topped porridge devoured during our city’s boom to the bacon-wrapped and deep-fried versions made popular during the bust, it’s been a while since anyone has paid any mind to the classics. Whatever happened to a solid meal, minus the pretense or gimmicks?
Thankfully, there are chefs moving toward a middle ground. Michael Mina is the perfect example. In 2013, after shuttering his acclaimed Nobhill Tavern, as well as his more casual property Seablue, at MGM Grand, he unveiled Pub 1842 — a laid-back man cave of a restaurant where a peanut butter-and-bacon burger generated the most buzz. It’s a fine plate of calories indeed, but hardly the best expression of Mina’s talents as a chef and restaurateur.
Bardot Brasserie, now open inside Aria, is a step back in the right direction. For $3 million in renovations, every trace of its former incarnation (Mina’s American Fish) was wiped clean. The new vibe is decidedly Parisian. Glossy, dark lacquered walls, marble accents, and dim lighting oozes sex appeal, and a bustling bar — which glows softly from very de rigueur polished brass fixtures — is a dream first-date destination.
With names like the Voltaire (vodka, housemade ginger syrup, Eric Bordelet sidre, baked apple bitters) and Charlemagne (Brenne single malt whisky, Tempus Fugit kina, Chambord, pineapple), cocktails are cerebral as well as seductive. However, my table opted for wines by the glass ($11-$32), which our server — a Frenchman named Thierry, bien sûr — competently presented and poured without a trace of snootiness.
Mina was present on my visit, but credit is ultimately due to Executive Chef Joshua Smith. It’s no surprise to learn that he’s a veteran of Seablue and Estiatorio Milos after sampling his blue crab crepe; it’s the best of the three starters we tried. A buckwheat envelope, filled with generous amounts of crab meat and wood ear mushrooms, is given a tableside bath of buerre blanc before the diner is instructed to dive-bomb her fork into a raw egg yolk in the center.
This being a French experience, the yolks just keep on coming. A well-seasoned prime steak tartare arrives with its own wobbling sphere of organic orange cholesterol, and wood-grilled “duck a l’orange” — Bardot’s version of Buffalo wings — is served with an ethereal sauce Maltaise, or orange-infused Hollandaise. Both are good but not particularly memorable. Perhaps I just had egg fatigue. For something more approachable, there is always the French onion soup, but that comes with a gently poached egg, too.
I found respite in my entrée. Parisian gnocchi, made with semolina instead of potatoes, is a visual stunner: the dumplings, seared on the surface and bearing a faint resemblance to bay scallops, are carefully arranged with hand-trimmed celery, earthy wild mushrooms, and fresh goat cheese. Again, a server naps your plate with sauce — this time made with roasted garlic and cream. It’s like a walk in the woods on your plate.
An order of sautéed skate wing stood in sharp contrast. Did it come from the same kitchen? Served on a puddle of cauliflower puree with a few shards of kale on the side, it was uninspired. There were also bones still in the flesh.
Whales, ballers and hardcore Francophiles can splurge on traditional côte de bœuf or lobster Thermidor for two; for those who are satisfied with simpler pleasures, there is “Le Steakburger.” Ain’t no Skippy on this patty: Comté cheese, garlic aioli and Bordelaise onions give it a French slant. Supplement the hand-cut fries with a separate order of chickpea frites, or panisse, to take it over the top. Smoky eggplant dip, sweet pickled peppers and bright pistou make a great improvised substitute for the usual burger condiments.
Desserts are an unfussy finish to the meal. Of the five French classics on offer, we enjoyed a caramelized tarte tatin, deeply flavorful and large enough for two. But a starkly presented mille feuille, constructed only of puff pastry wafers and crème patissiere, is a must-experience exercise in minimalism. The delicate flavor of rum, paired with the contrast of crunchy and creamy textures, was a memorable finish —neither highfalutin nor lowbrow, but just right.
Bardot Brasserie
Aria hotel-casino
702-590-8638, michaelmina.net
HOURS Daily 5-10:30p