At Hearthstone, rustic fare is refashioned for the wristband set
You could argue that curating a restaurant playlist requires just as much care and consideration as a drink list. I can take or leave a cocktail, but a dinner service soundtrack is something I have no say over. Our collective ears and, in many cases, overall impression of a meal are at the mercy of whoever’s iPod is plugged into the dock that evening.
Given my taste in music, Snoop Dogg’s “Drop It Like It’s Hot” is a fine match for a refreshing scallop tartare I recently had at Hearthstone, the massive New American restaurant at Red Rock Resort. My only wish was that the volume was a bit lower. That way I might have been able to hear our drop-dead gorgeous waitress as she sold us on the food.
The thumping beats and stunning servers are typical of The Light Group, whose portfolio of hot spots include 1OAK, The Bank and, of course, Light. Hearthstone is the company’s eighth restaurant in the city — and more importantly, its first venture off the Strip. Can the masterminds behind the city’s best day- and nightclubs satisfy the tastes of local suburbanites?
Judging by the crowds on a recent weeknight, things look promising. The downside is that there are kinks that need to be worked out. Our wait time for menus was 15 minutes. Cocktails were 86'd early in the evening. Entrées were delivered only minutes after our starters.
But gaps in service shouldn’t be an issue once the staff grows accustomed to the crowds — nor should it deter locals from using the restaurant as a date night destination or pre-gaming venue. The Light Group’s corporate Executive Chef Brian Massie (STACK, Citizen’s Kitchen & Bar, Diablo’s Cantina) has designed a wide-ranging menu that’s very au courant. There is a charcuterie bar with hooved pig legs on display, upgraded bar bites, and options for the vegan/paleo/diet-of-the-moment set.
And just like the menu at nearby Made L.V., there is a section dedicated to jars. A play on peanut butter and jelly in the form of foie gras mousse and berry preserves is the most decadent of the bunch. The crustless toast that accompanied the spread was a cute detail. Cruelty-free diners can opt for something more virtuous, like the harvest quinoa salad with chickpeas and pumpkin seeds.
Of two tartares, the aforementioned scallops are superior but could use an extra dose of salt. A butcher steak version is flavorful, but ours suffered from an uneven and overworked texture. A better bet is to try the flatbreads, made by the restaurant’s Naples-born pizzaiolo. Using an old family recipe, he tops his wood-fired dough six different ways. The carbonara, strewn with pancetta and crowned with a soft-boiled egg, is a standout.
Most items are made to be passed around the table and shared, but my single favorite bite comes from a limited entrée section. Pasta alla chitarra with Hawaiian shrimp and spicy Calabrian chiles is comfort in a bowl. Unfortunately, on a return visit, the delightfully chewy, housemade egg noodles were replaced with plain spaghetti.
The Wagyu short rib is another great example of a chilly weather dish. Braised in stout and spices, the sweet meat is reminiscent of Chinese barbecue. Never mind the forgettable dollop of ricotta and broccoli rabe that comes with it — you will need room for an ultra luxurious side of polenta, enriched with mascarpone and studded with chunks of lobster meat. Or try the roasted squash with creamy burrata cheese and brown butter nut granola. The gorgeous composition of seasonal produce is a match for its flavors. It’s Massie at his best.
You can finish your meal with a cheese board or choose from four ultra-simple composed desserts. None are short of delicious. The usual ho-hum chocolate lava cake is replaced with a peanut butter version; butterscotch, bananas, and brown butter ice cream take it over the top. And an apple tart made with tender cream cheese dough is akin to rugelach on steroids. A smooth scoop of sour cream ice cream was a perfect match for its warm spices.
Hearthstone replaces Hachi, which closed this past spring, and is part of a $35 million rehab of Red Rock. Combined with the arrival of Downtown Summerlin, it signals the neighborhood’s onward march towards being a respectable dining destination. Just be sure to bring your earplugs, because it’ll be as noisy as it is tasty. As the old saying goes: You can take The Light Group out of the Strip …
Hearthstone
Inside Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa, 11011 W. Charleston Blvd., 702-693-8300, hearthstonelv.com
HOURS
Sun-Thu, 5-10p
Fri-Sat, 5-11p