GREEN VALLEY & SUNSET (HENDERSON)
WEISS DELI: Weiss is that most beautiful of things — a proper Jewish deli, its own ecosystem of gastronomic delights. The cozy spot fills with the aroma of brisket, serves up matzo balls the size of a child’s fist, and sells the most delicate little cookies you’ve tasted. Weiss makes small miracles every day, and for that I am grateful.
BIG MAMAS WINGS & THINGS: Frying is an overlooked art form. Too often, in America’s culinary scene, fried dishes are a monoculture; overexposure leads to monotony, then apathy. Big Mamas Wings & Things is the remedy. To find out what I mean, try the crab fries, the seafood counterpart to carne asada fries. They’ll change your mind about fried food.
CARLITO’S BURRITOS: If we lived in a gentler, more generous world, we would all wake up with a breakfast burrito from Carlito’s on our nightstand each morning. The thin crispy potato slices, fluffy scrambled eggs, and meat of your choice (I’ll take ham) could lead to world peace. Generating the most comprehensive menu and authentic flavor of the city’s New Mexican restaurants, Carlito’s Burritos is the place to get your Hatch on.
AROMA LATIN AMERICAN COCINA (pictured above): Chef Steve Kestler has pulled the complexities of multiple Latin American cuisines into a cohesive theme for this genuinely exceptional little eatery. He takes wellknown dishes in new directions with unusual treatments (such as battered and fried avocado tacos on a bed of red cabbage), or by infusing it with international influences (enchiladas with a Korean flare). — from cherry pie to gingerbread cookie, on a recent day — since 1973. And the masterpiece Western sundae, with hot fudge, caramel, and candied pecans on whatever flavor custard you like, remains (according to Luv-It’s website) the top seller year after year.
OAKEY & LAS VEGAS BLVD. (DOWNTOWN)
BAJAMAR: The Marlin taco alone justifies the existence of Bajamar. If you’ve never had one, a Marlin taco is smoked tuna and mozzarella cheese with pico de gallo and, in Bajamar’s case, an ample helping of chipotle aioli. The combo is an oceanic journey through fire for the mouth. The kitchen’s original take on chicharrones, typically fried pig skin, is also noteworthy for featuring fish, or squid, battered and fried with the crunchy mouthfeel of chicharron, but a taste of the sea.
VIVA LAS AREPAS: Although Vickie’s diner — now located in Commercial Center — then stood as the OG of this intersection, chef Felix Arellano’s homage to Venezuelan food birthed the renaissance that began here a decade ago. Viva Las Arepas started as a tiny food stand in the parking lot of Dino’s Lounge, where Arellano served authentic food from his home country through a sliding glass widow. Today, besides the namesake cornmeal cakes stuffed with all manner of goodness, the place serves a menu as expansive as its dining room.
LUV-IT FROZEN CUSTARD: Before there was a Las Vegas, it seems, Luv-It was here … waiting for the moment when humanity would be ready frozen custard (not ice cream). The tiny, distinctive shack has been seducing downtown Las Vegas with its rotating flavors — from cherry pie to gingerbread cookie, on a recent day — since 1973. And the masterpiece Western sundae, with hot fudge, caramel, and candied pecans on whatever flavor custard you like, remains (according to Luv-It’s website) the top seller year after year.
CARNITAS Y TORTAS AHOGADAS GUADALAJARA: Holy cow — or pig, or goat — there are two of these? The original Carnitas y Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara is an East Las Vegas fixture, and the downtown location is a welcome newcomer to the corner. The signature here is torta ahogada, described simply as a roll packed to the gills with meat and soaked in a scorching chili sauce that will have your gums humming for hours.
TROPICANA & EASTERN (PARADISE)
HABANOS CAFE: It’s beautiful, what an oven and a bit of creativity can do. Ovens can roast pork, puff up pastries, churn out pizzas, and bake bread. The oven at Habanos cafe does all of this (and more) with a Cuban comfort-food sensibility.
FUKUMIMI RAMEN: This little ramen spot provides a counter note to the neighborhood’s prevailing Latin American theme. Fukumimi is down-home ramen: rich, fat chashu; noodles both wide and thin; strong, savory broths; and Japanese classics such as karaage — little balls of fried chicken spiced just right. Nuanced flavors and an easy at.mosphere make this spot stand out in a crowded culinary corner.
THE DISPENSARY LOUNGE: Food aside, this jazz lounge serves up something that you can’t find on many menus these days: classic Vegas! The lush carpeting, water wheel, and overall decor throw back to a bygone era (circa 1970). You may give it a try for the inexpensive libations and free jazz every Wednesday night, but you’ll go back for the food.
JAMAICAN VYBZ BAR & GRILL: Travel about half a block east of the intersection, and you’ll find a little plate of paradise. If I were to eat one thing at this funky spot, it would be the Oxtail, an intensely rich meat steeped in a complex brown gravy with an addictive sort of quality: one bite flows into the next until you’re looking around for your next plate.